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Post-Climbing Strength Training

This training is a great complement to your climbing and is designed to increase your climbing-specific strength. Complete 3-5 sets of this routine. Be sure to take enough rest between each exercise so that you can do the movements with the best quality you can. We recommend taking a 60-sec break between each exercise.


10 Sec Half Crimp Deadhang (fingers)

Hang from the smallest edge you can hold while still maintaining a half crimp grip position. Hang for a total of 10 secs. 

  • If you cannot hang at a half crimp on large edge then hang however your fingers will let you. Just try to hang for 10 sec.
  • If you can hang an 8mm edge for 10 secs then go back to a 20mm edge and add weight until 10 sec is your limit. 
  • Be sure that your elbows are slightly bent and your lats and scapula are engaged.



 


Peck Fly (shoulders and chest)

Do 5-7 reps and hold the position for 2-3 seconds each rep. 

  • Adjust your feet to make the exercise easier. If you are closer to a standing up position it will be easier. If you become more parallel to the ground it will be harder. 
  • It is common for people to feel weakness in the elbows as well as the arms pits and chest. This will go away with time. You will feel it where you need it. 
  • Do not lock your elbows. Keep them ever so slightly bent. Also, try to keep your wrist neutral and don't let them bend 



 

 

Pull-ups (pulling muscles)

Do 5 reps.

  • Always attempt to do more than 5 reps.
  • If you can do more then add weight using a harness.
  • If you cannot do 5 pull-ups do Two-arm or One-arm rows instead and adjust your feet to achieve the correct intensity 

Pull-Up:

 

 

Two Arm Row:


One-arm Row


Lever (core tension)

Hold for 5-7 secs

  • You must maintain a flat body from your head to your toes
  • Move your legs slowly into position. Do not kip them up. Go until you feel your lower back light up.
  • Bend your arms if you need to.
  • If you have trouble pivoting on your shoulders you can do 7 reps on the ab wheel instead or do I’s on the TRX traps. 

 


Ab Wheel

 

TRX I’s


 

About the Author:

Connor Dykes has a decade of climbing experience. He has climbed all over the US from the high mountains, hot desserts, to humid southern jungles. He works as a competitive youth climbing coach for ABC Kids Climbing and as route setter.  Whether its steep limestone sport routes, high alpine boulders, or even a plastic route at the local gym, he is always trying to improve his abilities in every aspect of the sport. Connor has experience as a climbing guide and loves empowering other climbers with knowledge so they can confidently pursue their climbing goals.

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