Non-Assisted Braking Devices vs. Assisted Braking Devices
There are two primary categories that belay devices fall under: either non-assisted braking, or assisted braking. This article covers some of today’s most common styles of belay devices on the market.
What Is a Non-Assisted Braking Device?
Non-assisted braking devices require the belayer to keep their hand on the brake end of the rope and will only catch the climber if their hand remains below the braking plane of the belay device. If the belayer's hand remains above the braking plane and the climber falls, the rope will wiz right through the climber's hand. This can cause serious rope burns to the belayer's hand and may result in more serious consequences for the climber. With proper safety training and attentiveness, non-assisted braking devices can provide a very smooth belaying experience. The non-assisted devices we discuss in this article are the Tubular and Plaquette Devices.
Tubular and Plaquette Belay Devices
In the mid to late 1980s, tubular and plaquette style belay devices hit the market. With the advent of belay plates, a new belay technique was developed, most popularly referred to as the "Pull, Brake, Under, Slide" (PBUS) which remains the standard belay technique for most modern belay devices.
The plaquette device has one additional benefit over a tube device: by clipping a plaquette in its extra carabiner loop, the belayer can engage guide mode. This allows a multi-pitch leader to belay their followers up while connecting the device directly to the anchor, achieving better leverage for the belayer in autoblock mode.
What Is an Assisted Braking Device?
An assisted braking device (ABD) assists a belayer while catching a falling climber who is attached to the climbing rope. When activated, ABDs produce a locking action that pinches the climbing rope, providing a catch assist to the belayer.
In order to increase the effectiveness of the locking assist, the belayer should keep their hand on the locking end of the rope at all times and keep it below the brake plane.
These devices are produced in various shapes, with each style offering benefits in different belay scenarios, such as top rope belay, lead belay, multi-pitch belay, and in some cases hauling and ascending. Although older styles of devices are still commonly in use today, there are many ABDs out there that are challenging the status quo of what modern belay safety should look like.
Why Choose an Assisted Braking Device?
So why should you choose an ABD over an older style of belay device? ABDs are more likely to catch a climber if a belayer's hand accidentally comes off of the brake end of the rope. While this isn't to say a belayer should pay less attention to the brake end of the rope, it does provide an extra layer of safety for the climber.
As a belayer, it's our responsibility to our climbing partner to reduce our potential margin of error. With that in consideration, there are many factors that are out of our control, like an unexpected climber fall or loose/falling rock. Falling rock poses the risk of rendering a belayer unconscious if hit on the head, which could cause them to let go of the locking end of the rope. In this case, an ABD is much more likely to catch the climber than a non-ABD.
Two Categories of ABDs
There are two broad categories of ABDs: passive and active. Here's a bit more on both with examples of each.
Passive ABDs
These ABDs operate with a notch in the belay plate which engages a locking action between the carabiner and the rope. There are many passive ABD models out there. Some bear a striking resemblance to tubular and plaquette styles of belay devices like Edelrid's Mega Jul and Giga Jul devices.
So what makes these lock differently than a standard tubular or plaquette style of belay device? Its all about a deep cleft that is carved out in the tube of the belay device. Once the climber's end of the rope produces a high level of tension on the device, the carabiner and the rope are sent into the cleft of the belay device which achieves a mechanical locking advantage. These are the kinds of ABD we recommend to someone who favors the tubular and plaquette syle of belay devices.
A few examples of Passive ABDs
Active ABDs
These styles of ABDs achieve a locking action between the rope and the device. Once enough tension is delivered to the device from the climber's end, the moving components of the device pinch the rope resulting in a locking action on the rope.
Belayers enjoy using this style of ABD because they provide an exceptionally smooth belayer experience. There is typically a steeper learning curve with these styles of devices, but once the belayer develops a solid belay technique with them, it's hard to want to switch back! Some active ABDs are also a favorite in the guiding world because of their versatility and smoothness in many different rope management scenarios.
A few examples of active ABDs
GRIGRI
In the early 1990s Petzl introduced a new concept in belay safety. The GRIGRI was designed to improve safety standards over earlier styles of belay devices. Fast forward to now, and many more assisted braking devices have been introduced to the market. Some are designed simply for top rope and single pitch lead belay, while others can also be used for multi-pitch and even rappel. However, the GRIGRI still tends to be the gold standard for many use cases for both its simplicity and safety.
NEOX
The Petzl NEOX is a newer popular belay device known for its robust and user-friendly design. Featuring an intuitive assisted-braking mechanism just like the GRIGRI, it engages automatically when sudden force is applied, such as during a fall. However, there's one key difference between the NEOX and the GRIGRI: the presence of a free-spinning, spring-tensioned wheel that makes it easier for the belayer to feed out slack. It's also slightly more expensive and slightly heavier than the Grigri.
Revo
The Wild Country Revo is renowned for its unique design and exceptional safety features. Unlike traditional assisted-braking devices, the Revo utilizes a bi-directional locking mechanism that activates regardless of the direction of the load. This feature ensures that the device will engage and lock the rope in both directions, providing an extra layer of safety.
The innovative design allows for a smooth and consistent rope feed, minimizing friction and maximizing efficiency. It's popular with trad climbers who face unpredictable falls, and because it's gentler on ropes, it's good for those who are concerned with preserving their rope's lifespan.
Trango Vergo
The Vergo is another standout in the realm of assisted-braking belay devices, designed with a focus on ergonomic operation and precise control. Its design prioritizes the natural motion of the hand, paying out slack to the side instead of up and down, making it comfortable to use over long periods and less likely to cause hand fatigue. The device includes indicators that help the belayer ensure the rope is loaded correctly, adding an extra layer of safety.
Are ABDs Considered Auto Locking Devices?
ABDs are not auto-locking devices! It's common to hear people refer to ABDs as auto locking devices. This is a myth. Though ABDs can help reduce the margin of belayer error, it is not a foolproof system if the belayer is not using the device according to the manufacturer's instructions. ABDs are designed to assist an attentive belayer and provide additional safety in the case of a climber fall. It’s always a good practice to read the manufacturer's instruction manual on your belay device. This will help you understand your device's intended use and limitations.
Send hard and be safe out there!
Are you interested in purchasing an ABD? Check out Climb Source's assisted braking devices for sale.
*This article is intended for supplemental education purposes only and not a substitute for professional instruction.
